Acrylic Urethan Enamel Touch-Up Restoration

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Teak Cleaner
Use a good 2 part product. We like "Snappy Teak-NU". (Part #1 has a mild varnish removing property which will take varnish traces from the grain.)
CAUTION!	Wear rubber gloves. - Avoid contact with eyes or skin. - Work out of plastic containers only. - Keep off paint and varnished surfaces. - Use two (2) sets of brushes. Don't intermix.
Instructions: Wet the wood thoroughly with fresh water. Apply Part #1 liberally with a nylon bristle brush. When area darkens to a uniform dark brown, scrub lightly with a bristle scrub brush. Pay extra attention to seams, joints. As this will be the last time you have to clean your teak, we suggest: Wash the darkened area with fresh water. Repeat Step #1. This step opens the pores of the wood which will allow trapped dirt and contaminents to be removed. Apply Part #2 evenly and liberally with a nylon bristle brush to the darkened area. Scrub lightly with a hand brush to loosen the dirt from the grain and seams. Area will lighten to a golden yellow. Rinse off completely with fresh water. When the teak is thoroughly dry, remove the raised wood fuzz using a "3M" red scuff pad, #7447. Just prior to painting, wipe the surface with denatured alcohol to recede the remaining teak oils and pick up the dust. An extra precaution would be to tack rag the surface just before application.
Note: For Mahogany, "Snappy Teak NU" will remove discoloration and grime without bleaching. **Recommend using Teak cleaner before Sanding. This prevents over sanding trying to remove dark areas.
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Honey TeakTM Acrylic Urethane Enamel

For Use on All Woods. (For a Long Lasting Finish, follow these instructions)

Instructions: Through the years people have applied all kinds of coatings and oils, etc. to try for a lasting maintenance-free appearance. Among some of the oddest: diesel fuel for a dark look; vaseline for (I really don't know). Also nature helps to contaminate wood with acid rain, smoke residue, smog, etc. Teak will absorb this, especially at seams, joints and behind the top edge of vertical trim. Pay extra attention to these areas when cleaning with a good 2-part teak cleaner. We recommend using Part #1 twice to insure opening the pores of the teak thus allowing trapped garbage to be more readily flowed away using Part #2 with plenty of fresh clean water. Allow the teak to dry thoroughly. Sand using #80 or #100, sand with the grain. Round all edges and corners as paint cannot buildup on a knife blade edge. Then follow with a firm rubbing of the surface using a '3M' red scuff pad #7447 (found at most auto paint stores or marine outlets). Wipe the loose wood dust off with denatured alcohol. Then tack rag the surface to be painted, just prior to applying Honey Teak. Other woods do not have oils as does teak. Using only sanding and removal of fuzz and dust is needed. There are different coating methods, but in all cases we recommend using a good quality varnish brush with the loose bristles removed by dabbing against 2" masking tape. Apply the same as varnish, laid on. Try to work in shaded areas as the sun rays may heat the surface and cause trapped air to expand and cause bubbles. Break the bubbles when this occurs. Three (3) full coats of Honey Teak are recommended with an additional two or more coats of the clear enamel Topcoat. All Signature Finish paints are sandable and buffable.

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Honey Teak System Touch-Up Restoration

General Information: HONEY - Has the ultra-violet inhibitors that gives the system it's longevity and the soft attractive color of (10) coats of spar varnish. ** Never over sand the Honey coats, this can cause blemishes. It will also reduce the effective thickness of the film resulting in premature failure. CLEAR - Gives added depth and beauty, without changing the color. Sanding and buffing of the clear will not reduce the longevity. Basically the clear is a sacrificial film to the elements. HONEY - Can be applied over Money or Clear at any time. CLEAR - Can be applied over Honey or Clear at any tale. REMEMBER - Get your maintenance coats of Clear applied before Mother Nature takes her toll. It's simple. It's easy to do. But if you lose, don't despair, the Honey Teak System is very forgiving and is repairable in spots or as a total facelifting. Spot Touch-Up: If You Have a Dent and the Surface is NOT Broken... Simply scuff the dent with a 3M red pad #7447, then fill with Clear, mixed (8 parts) Clear, (1 part) catalyst. To make a very small amount, count drops on to a formed piece of aluminum foil. Stir and apply. White Areas, Rope Burns, or Worn to Bare Wood... Sand with the grain using #100 or #180 dry sandpaper. Sand to bare wood being sure the edges are feathered and firm. After sanding and some bare wood is still grayish, use Teak Cleaner. Don't try to sand out, you will create hollows. Dinged or Gouged Wood... If you have the chip, simply replace by using Honey as a glue. If the gouge is not too severe or too deep - apply (3) or more thin coats of Honey to avoid puddling. Allow to set almost tack free. Now fill using Clear applied in thin coats every 20 minutes. If you run out of time, finish later but, first scuff with a 3M red pad #7447, then continue to fill with Clear.

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