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- Use a good grade varnish brush or a high quality sponge brush.
- Use the ratio:
8 parts paint
2 parts catalyst
4 parts flow fluid
- Mix only enough for one coat; one (1) ounce will cover six (6) square feet per
coat.
- Cover container with aluminum foil when not in use.
- If using a high quality sponge brush, wrap loosely in foil if it will not be used
for a short period of time. When using a bristle brush, leave in the Honey Teak
container covered with foil. After a days use suspend the bristle brush in flow
fluid rather than trying to clean. Before reusing, shake and wipe dry
(some bristle brushes have been in and out of the flow fluid for (3)
or more years).
- Add fresh Honey Teak to old as needed, using the same container; the pot life is
six (6) hours.
- 1st Coat: Brush into wood, seams, cracks, etc.
- 2nd Coat and 3rd Coat: Lay on wet on wet, every 20 minutes or as long as
the surface still has a tack. Moving air speeds cure.
- 4th Coat: Optional.
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Clear Enamel Top Coat
- If the Clear is applied when the Honey Teak has a light tack (1 to 3 hours)
no scuffing is required.
- If the Honey Teak has cured hard, or overnight, it must be scuffed with a
"3M" red pad before applying the Clear Enamel.
- Two (2) Coats will do, up to eight (8) coats may be applied wet on wet.
- In the strong Florida sun we recommend applying (2) coats annually.
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Instructions:
- Use the Clear with no thinning or maximum of 12% flow fluid.
- Mix with the catalyst in a ratio of:
8 parts clear
1 part catalyst
0 or 1 part flow fluid
- Mix only enough for one (1) coat: one (1) ounce will cover six (6) square feet
per coat.
- Cover container with aluminum foil when not in use.
- If using a high quality sponge brush, wrap loosely in foil if it will not be
used for a short period of time. When using a bristle brush, leave in the
Clear container covered with foil. After a day's use suspend the bristle brush
in Flow fluid rather than trying to clean (Some bristle brushes have been in
Flow Fluid for the past 3 years).
- Add fresh Clear to old as needed; the pot life is 6 hours.
- Re-coat every 20 minutes to 60 minutes, wet on wet. Remember, moving air speeds
cure time.
- Apply as many coats in one day as desired: 2 to 8 coats.
- The cured finish can be sanded and buffed or re-coated.
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* To re-coat, sand smooth the flat surfaces with the finest grit that gets the job
done, do not sand corners or edges. Scuff remaining gloss using a "3M" red
scuff pad #7447.
* Matte finish-interior brightwork. Sand the flat surfaces with #400 dry paper by
hand or jitterbug palm sander. Do not sand corners or edges. Scuff with a "3M"
red scuff pad #7447. Buff by hand or slow speed machine, an electric drill using
a 6" lambs wool pad is safer to handle than a larger 8" buffing machine.
Compound "3M" heavy duty rubbing compound #05955 or equivalent (No wax or
silicone).
* Wet look (Hi-gloss) - Sand the flat surfaces with #400 dry paper by hand or
jitterbug palm sander. Do not sand corners or edges. Proceed to sand with the
next finer grit - #600 or #800 dry (#800 or #1,000 wet). Machine buff using a
high speed (2,500 RPM) and '3M' compound. May be further buffed with a glazing
compound (no wax or silicone).
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